LOS ANGELES — When Evan Funke bought a ticket to Italy and went off to study pasta making in Bologna for three months in 2008, it changed his trajectory as a chef. Now chef-owner of the Italian restaurant Bucato in Culver City, Calif., he found a calling in his love for handmade pasta.
His obsession with pasta began long before, during the six years he was at Spago. The garde-manger station where he worked at one point was just beside the area where Wolfgang Puck’s longtime pasta maker made agnolotti. “Small, as small as the end of your pinkie,” Funke remembers. “That was the first shape of pasta I fell in love with.”